The version shown here for the step by step tying example is the Olive UV Version. If you only require a standard Beaded Apps Bloodworm then just remove step 8 from the tying list (Wing). Some people don't even use any thread to re-inforce the middle legs and just knot them over the beads and superglue them in. I tie the middle legs in with thread purely because I believe that it helps to re-inforce the fly. The reason I also tie a tag is again to reinfoirce the fly. On my early Beaded Apps bloodworms, I only used superglue at the last bead and found this wore away very quickly and the fly collapsed.
The superglue I use for this fly is the Loctite Brush On Superglue. Some people tend to use Superglue Gel claiming its more flexible.
Can be fished as follows :-
1.) Floating Line - long leader using a dead drift, let the wind take the fly around. Occasionally use a very long pull of the fly line to pull the fly up a few feet and then let it sink back down again.
2.) Floating Line under a bung, Let the feet drift around in depths of less than 6 feet near banks.
3.) Intermediate - Can be awsome fishing this method, use variable rates of retrive from a slow figure of eight twitch right through to the fastest pull you can achieve.
STEP 1 : For the first step, you will need a bobbin threader or a piece of wire bent in two. Thread 6 of the beads onto the bobbin threader.
STEP 2 : Now place two lengths of spanflex into the loop between the end of the bobbin threader and the beads.
STEP 3 : Now push the beads off the end of the bobbin threader and onto the spanflex as shown. Now grip the beads and pull two of the spanflex ends through them.
STEP 4 : This should leave you with 6 beads onto just two lengths of spanflex as shown. Position the beads so they are roughly in the centre of the spanflex.
STEP 5 : Take the hook and crimp down the barb. (If you don't do this then I've found that the beads don't seem to last very long, the barb seems to score the inside of the bead which in turn weakens it). Now thread each bead onto the hook shank along with the spanflex. After the first two beads are on, you will need to pull the spanflex at both the front and rear to get the spanflex to lay straight. Make sure that you try and keep the spanflex lengths at the front and rear about equal.
STEP 6 : Now push the rear 3 beads back a little, leaving a gap. Make sure that the lengths of spanflex at both the front and rear are of equal lengths before continuing
STEP 7 : Push the front 3 beads hard towards the eye and catch in the thread just behind the third bead. Lay a piece of spanflex across the hookshank and make sure each length is equal. Now catch in with thread using figure of eight wraps. Make sure that the spanflex stays on the top of the hookshank.
STEP 8 : Now take some lengths of Wild UV and Phosphour Yellow Flash Attack and lay across the gap between the beads. Pull down hard on the thread which should cause the flash attack to flare up and again perform some figure of eight wraps so that the material is secured. Whip Finish and cast off the thread. (Ignore this step if you require a standard Beaded Apps Bloodworm)
STEP 9 : Trim the Flash Attack so that it leaves a neat wing.
STEP 10 : The final step is to create a tag at the end of the last bead. Push the last three beads towards the area of the wing and then catch in some Glo Brite Floss behind the last bead. Wind back and forth until a tapered tag is created , whip finish and cast off the thread. The final step is to coat the tag with superglue and then reverse the fly in the vice and apply a drop of superglue onto the thread base where the wing was tied in.